Quilt layouts explained

What a layout is

A layout, or setting, is how the blocks are arranged in the quilt top. The same block can look calm or busy, small or grand, depending on its setting. Quilters often design the layout first and choose the block after.

To compare them fairly, every picture below uses the same 12″ Ohio Star in the same five fabrics. Only the layout changes, and so does the size of the finished top.

Side by side (straight set)

Blocks sewn straight to each other in rows and columns. It’s the simplest layout to sew, and it uses the fewest pieces. Where blocks meet, their edges join up, and new shapes can appear across the seams (secondary patterns). Nine blocks, three by three, finish at 36″ × 36″.

With sashing and cornerstones

Strips of fabric, called sashing, go between the blocks, like the frame of a window. Small squares called cornerstones can sit where the strips cross. Sashing gives each block room, hides blocks that don’t quite match in size, and makes the quilt bigger with little extra work. With 2″ sashing the same nine blocks finish at 40″ × 40″.

The width to cut and how many strips you need are in Sashing and cornerstones calculator.

On point

Each block is turned 45° so it stands on a corner, in diagonal rows. Triangles fill the gaps at the edges: setting triangles along the sides, and corner triangles at the four corners. A block on point is wider than it is square (corner to corner is about 1.41 times its side), so the same nine blocks make a much bigger quilt: 50⅞″ × 50⅞″.

The setting triangles have their bias on the long edge if you cut them the usual way, so handle them gently. Their cut sizes are in Setting and corner triangles for on-point quilts, and the finished size for any number of blocks is in the On-point quilt size calculator.

Alternating blocks

Pieced blocks alternate with plain squares, or with a second, simpler block, like a checkerboard. Plain squares halve the piecing and leave space for quilting that shows. Two blocks side by side can join up into a pattern neither makes alone. An odd number across and down puts a pieced block in every corner.

Columns (strippy)

Blocks sewn into vertical columns, with long plain strips between them. It’s quick to sew, because the long seams have nothing to match across. The blocks can stand straight, or on point inside each column with setting triangles.

Half drop

Every other column slides down by half a block, so the blocks don’t line up across the quilt. The top and bottom of those columns finish with half blocks. It breaks up the grid and gives a quilt movement, without any extra fabric.

Medallion

One large center, framed by round after round of borders, plain and pieced. Each round must fit the one inside it exactly, so it helps to plan each border’s width so its units divide its length. Here a 24″ star is framed by corner squares, a sawtooth, a plain strip and a checkerboard: 48″ × 48″.

Pieced borders: sawtooth, flying geese and more shows how to make the units fit.

Hexagons, tumbling blocks, triangles and one big star

Some quilts aren’t made of square blocks at all. They repeat one shape across the whole top, and the pattern comes from where the colors fall.

English paper piecing for beginners covers sewing hexagons by hand, and Lone Star quilt math works out a big star’s diamonds.

The sizes side by side

How big each example finishes, from the same 12″ block. Add borders to any of them to reach the size you want.

How to choose

• New to piecing? Side by side or sashing. Sashing forgives blocks that came out a little different in size.
• A busy block? Give it room: sashing, or alternate it with plain squares.
• Few blocks, and a bigger quilt wanted? On point, or alternating with plain squares, covers more ground with the same blocks.
• Want it to look less like a grid? Half drop, columns, or on point.
• Love borders? A medallion.