Double Aster quilt block

A 6″ finished block measures 6½″ before it’s sewn into a quilt. Each fabric’s yardage is the least that cuts its strips across the width of fabric, with a strip to spare for straightening.

Worked out by @quarterinch/cutting · ¼″ seams included · strips cut across 42″ of usable width · the letters are the pieces the sewing steps name

A 9″ finished block measures 9½″ before it’s sewn into a quilt. Each fabric’s yardage is the least that cuts its strips across the width of fabric, with a strip to spare for straightening.

Worked out by @quarterinch/cutting · ¼″ seams included · strips cut across 42″ of usable width · the letters are the pieces the sewing steps name

A 12″ finished block measures 12½″ before it’s sewn into a quilt. Each fabric’s yardage is the least that cuts its strips across the width of fabric, with a strip to spare for straightening.

Worked out by @quarterinch/cutting · ¼″ seams included · strips cut across 42″ of usable width · the letters are the pieces the sewing steps name

For the 6″ block. Choose another size above and these steps follow it.

1. Sew the set-in seams

   These pieces meet where a straight seam can’t run right across, so they’re joined with set-in (Y) seams. Mark the ¼″ seam points at each piece’s corners. Sew each seam only from mark to mark, backstitching at both ends, so the seam allowances stay free; sew the two seams into the corner, then pivot and sew the last one. Press the allowances so they swirl round the point. The part measures 6½″ (6″ finished).

2. Add 3 corner triangles

   Sew the Background E triangle across each corner in turn, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle.

3. Add the last corner triangle

   Sew the Background E triangle across the last corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle. The block measures 6½″ (6″ finished).

For the 9″ block. Choose another size above and these steps follow it.

1. Sew the set-in seams

   These pieces meet where a straight seam can’t run right across, so they’re joined with set-in (Y) seams. Mark the ¼″ seam points at each piece’s corners. Sew each seam only from mark to mark, backstitching at both ends, so the seam allowances stay free; sew the two seams into the corner, then pivot and sew the last one. Press the allowances so they swirl round the point. The part measures 9½″ (9″ finished).

2. Add 3 corner triangles

   Sew the Background E triangle across each corner in turn, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle.

3. Add the last corner triangle

   Sew the Background E triangle across the last corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle. The block measures 9½″ (9″ finished).

For the 12″ block. Choose another size above and these steps follow it.

1. Sew the set-in seams

   These pieces meet where a straight seam can’t run right across, so they’re joined with set-in (Y) seams. Mark the ¼″ seam points at each piece’s corners. Sew each seam only from mark to mark, backstitching at both ends, so the seam allowances stay free; sew the two seams into the corner, then pivot and sew the last one. Press the allowances so they swirl round the point. The part measures 12½″ (12″ finished).

2. Add 3 corner triangles

   Sew the Background E triangle across each corner in turn, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle.

3. Add the last corner triangle

   Sew the Background E triangle across the last corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle. The block measures 12½″ (12″ finished).