Quilt block · Logs and strips · Advanced
Chevron quilt block
Four units, each a chevron of a medium and a dark parallelogram on a light ground.
What to cut for one block
A 6″ finished block measures 6½″ before it’s sewn into a quilt. Each fabric’s yardage is the least that cuts its strips across the width of fabric, with a strip to spare for straightening.
Background · Snow in the picture
12 triangles
- A1 square 4¼″cut twice on the diagonals
- C4 squares 2⅜″cut once on the diagonal
Dark · Navy in the picture
4 parallelograms
- B4 parallelograms 2¼″lay the ruler's 45° line on the strip's edge, trim the end, then cut every 2¼″ along the edge
Medium · Denim in the picture
4 parallelograms
- B4 parallelograms 2¼″reversed, the 45° the other way: trim the end, then cut every 2¼″ along the edge
Worked out by @quarterinch/cutting · ¼″ seams included · strips cut across 42″ of usable width · the letters are the pieces the sewing steps name
A 9″ finished block measures 9½″ before it’s sewn into a quilt. Each fabric’s yardage is the least that cuts its strips across the width of fabric, with a strip to spare for straightening.
Background · Snow in the picture
12 triangles
- A1 square 5¾″cut twice on the diagonals
- C4 squares 3⅛″cut once on the diagonal
Dark · Navy in the picture
4 parallelograms
- B4 parallelograms 3″lay the ruler's 45° line on the strip's edge, trim the end, then cut every 3″ along the edge
Medium · Denim in the picture
4 parallelograms
- B4 parallelograms 3″reversed, the 45° the other way: trim the end, then cut every 3″ along the edge
Worked out by @quarterinch/cutting · ¼″ seams included · strips cut across 42″ of usable width · the letters are the pieces the sewing steps name
A 12″ finished block measures 12½″ before it’s sewn into a quilt. Each fabric’s yardage is the least that cuts its strips across the width of fabric, with a strip to spare for straightening.
Background · Snow in the picture
12 triangles
- A1 square 7¼″cut twice on the diagonals
- C4 squares 3⅞″cut once on the diagonal
Dark · Navy in the picture
4 parallelograms
- B4 parallelograms 3¾″lay the ruler's 45° line on the strip's edge, trim the end, then cut every 3¾″ along the edge
Medium · Denim in the picture
4 parallelograms
- B4 parallelograms 3¾″reversed, the 45° the other way: trim the end, then cut every 3¾″ along the edge
Worked out by @quarterinch/cutting · ¼″ seams included · strips cut across 42″ of usable width · the letters are the pieces the sewing steps name
How it’s sewn
For the 6″ block. Choose another size above and these steps follow it.
- Sew the set-in seams, 4 times
These pieces meet where a straight seam can’t run right across, so they’re joined with set-in (Y) seams. Mark the ¼″ seam points at each piece’s corners. Sew each seam only from mark to mark, backstitching at both ends, so the seam allowances stay free; sew the two seams into the corner, then pivot and sew the last one. Press the allowances so they swirl round the point. The part measures 3½″ (3″ finished).
- Add 4 corner triangles
Sew the Background C triangle across the corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle.
- Add 4 corner triangles
Sew the Background C triangle across the corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle. Each measures 3½″ (3″ finished).
- Sew the units into 2 rows
Lay out the units as in the picture and sew them into 2 rows. Press the seams in row 1 to the left, row 2 to the right, and so on, so they nest when the rows are joined.
- Join the rows
Join the 2 rows, matching and nesting the seams where they meet. Press the long seams open or to one side. The block measures 6½″ (6″ finished).
For the 9″ block. Choose another size above and these steps follow it.
- Sew the set-in seams, 4 times
These pieces meet where a straight seam can’t run right across, so they’re joined with set-in (Y) seams. Mark the ¼″ seam points at each piece’s corners. Sew each seam only from mark to mark, backstitching at both ends, so the seam allowances stay free; sew the two seams into the corner, then pivot and sew the last one. Press the allowances so they swirl round the point. The part measures 5″ (4½″ finished).
- Add 4 corner triangles
Sew the Background C triangle across the corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle.
- Add 4 corner triangles
Sew the Background C triangle across the corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle. Each measures 5″ (4½″ finished).
- Sew the units into 2 rows
Lay out the units as in the picture and sew them into 2 rows. Press the seams in row 1 to the left, row 2 to the right, and so on, so they nest when the rows are joined.
- Join the rows
Join the 2 rows, matching and nesting the seams where they meet. Press the long seams open or to one side. The block measures 9½″ (9″ finished).
For the 12″ block. Choose another size above and these steps follow it.
- Sew the set-in seams, 4 times
These pieces meet where a straight seam can’t run right across, so they’re joined with set-in (Y) seams. Mark the ¼″ seam points at each piece’s corners. Sew each seam only from mark to mark, backstitching at both ends, so the seam allowances stay free; sew the two seams into the corner, then pivot and sew the last one. Press the allowances so they swirl round the point. The part measures 6½″ (6″ finished).
- Add 4 corner triangles
Sew the Background C triangle across the corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle.
- Add 4 corner triangles
Sew the Background C triangle across the corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle. Each measures 6½″ (6″ finished).
- Sew the units into 2 rows
Lay out the units as in the picture and sew them into 2 rows. Press the seams in row 1 to the left, row 2 to the right, and so on, so they nest when the rows are joined.
- Join the rows
Join the 2 rows, matching and nesting the seams where they meet. Press the long seams open or to one side. The block measures 12½″ (12″ finished).
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More like this: Log Cabin and strip quilt blocks · all quilt blocks
Questions
Short answers.
Something else? A real person replies.
hello@quarterinch.app
What size should I make it?
Its 8 × 8 grid lands on the ⅛″ marks at 6″, 9″ and 12″, so every piece measures with a ruler at all three. It also cuts cleanly at 4″, 7″, 8″, 10″, 14″, 15″, 16″ and 18″. In Quarter Inch you can make it any size, and it says when a cut falls between the lines.
Can I paper piece it?
Not as drawn: it has set-in (Y) seams, where three seams meet and none runs straight through. Piece it with a rotary cutter and templates instead, as the cutting list above does.
Is it a good block for a beginner?
It’s an advanced block: 20 pieces in 3 different shapes, set-in (Y) seams and 9 points to match. Practise the hard seams on scraps first. We work the level out from the block’s own geometry, never by eye.