Quilt block · Checks and chains · Intermediate
Chain quilt block
Four big squares in the center, with small squares and triangles linking them round the edges like a chain.
What to cut for one block
A 6″ finished block measures 6½″ before it’s sewn into a quilt. Each fabric’s yardage is the least that cuts its strips across the width of fabric, with a strip to spare for straightening.
Background · Snow in the picture
8 squares and 8 triangles
- A4 squares 1⅞″cut once on the diagonal
- B8 squares 1½″
Dark · Navy in the picture
4 squares
- C2 squares 2½″
- B2 squares 1½″
Medium · Denim in the picture
4 squares
- C2 squares 2½″
- B2 squares 1½″
Accent · Apricot in the picture
4 triangles
- A1 square 3¼″cut twice on the diagonals
Worked out by @quarterinch/cutting · ¼″ seams included · strips cut across 42″ of usable width · the letters are the pieces the sewing steps name
A 9″ finished block measures 9½″ before it’s sewn into a quilt. Each fabric’s yardage is the least that cuts its strips across the width of fabric, with a strip to spare for straightening.
Background · Snow in the picture
8 squares and 8 triangles
- A4 squares 2⅜″cut once on the diagonal
- B8 squares 2″
Dark · Navy in the picture
4 squares
- C2 squares 3½″
- B2 squares 2″
Medium · Denim in the picture
4 squares
- C2 squares 3½″
- B2 squares 2″
Accent · Apricot in the picture
4 triangles
- A1 square 4¼″cut twice on the diagonals
Worked out by @quarterinch/cutting · ¼″ seams included · strips cut across 42″ of usable width · the letters are the pieces the sewing steps name
A 12″ finished block measures 12½″ before it’s sewn into a quilt. Each fabric’s yardage is the least that cuts its strips across the width of fabric, with a strip to spare for straightening.
Background · Snow in the picture
8 squares and 8 triangles
- A4 squares 2⅞″cut once on the diagonal
- B8 squares 2½″
Dark · Navy in the picture
4 squares
- C2 squares 4½″
- B2 squares 2½″
Medium · Denim in the picture
4 squares
- C2 squares 4½″
- B2 squares 2½″
Accent · Apricot in the picture
4 triangles
- A1 square 5¼″cut twice on the diagonals
Worked out by @quarterinch/cutting · ¼″ seams included · strips cut across 42″ of usable width · the letters are the pieces the sewing steps name
How it’s sewn
For the 6″ block. Choose another size above and these steps follow it.
- Make 4 flying geese units
Sew a sky triangle to one short side of the goose triangle and press toward the sky; then the other. The goose’s point sits ¼″ below the top edge. Each measures 2½″ × 1½″ (2″ × 1″ finished).
- Make 1 four-patch unit
Sew the squares in pairs and press each pair’s seam toward the darker square. Join the pairs, turning one so the seams nest, and press the long seam open. Each measures 4½″ (4″ finished).
- Make 4 sections, 4½″ × 1½″
Sew 2 Background B squares and a flying geese unit together in a row. Press toward the plain pieces. Each measures 4½″ × 1½″ (4″ × 1″ finished).
- Sew the units and pieces into 3 rows
Lay out the units and pieces as in the picture and sew them into 3 rows. Press the seams in row 1 to the left, row 2 to the right, and so on, so they nest when the rows are joined.
- Join the rows
Join the 3 rows, matching and nesting the seams where they meet. Press the long seams open or to one side. The block measures 6½″ (6″ finished).
For the 9″ block. Choose another size above and these steps follow it.
- Make 4 flying geese units
Sew a sky triangle to one short side of the goose triangle and press toward the sky; then the other. The goose’s point sits ¼″ below the top edge. Each measures 3½″ × 2″ (3″ × 1½″ finished).
- Make 1 four-patch unit
Sew the squares in pairs and press each pair’s seam toward the darker square. Join the pairs, turning one so the seams nest, and press the long seam open. Each measures 6½″ (6″ finished).
- Make 4 sections, 6½″ × 2″
Sew 2 Background B squares and a flying geese unit together in a row. Press toward the plain pieces. Each measures 6½″ × 2″ (6″ × 1½″ finished).
- Sew the units and pieces into 3 rows
Lay out the units and pieces as in the picture and sew them into 3 rows. Press the seams in row 1 to the left, row 2 to the right, and so on, so they nest when the rows are joined.
- Join the rows
Join the 3 rows, matching and nesting the seams where they meet. Press the long seams open or to one side. The block measures 9½″ (9″ finished).
For the 12″ block. Choose another size above and these steps follow it.
- Make 4 flying geese units
Sew a sky triangle to one short side of the goose triangle and press toward the sky; then the other. The goose’s point sits ¼″ below the top edge. Each measures 4½″ × 2½″ (4″ × 2″ finished).
- Make 1 four-patch unit
Sew the squares in pairs and press each pair’s seam toward the darker square. Join the pairs, turning one so the seams nest, and press the long seam open. Each measures 8½″ (8″ finished).
- Make 4 sections, 8½″ × 2½″
Sew 2 Background B squares and a flying geese unit together in a row. Press toward the plain pieces. Each measures 8½″ × 2½″ (8″ × 2″ finished).
- Sew the units and pieces into 3 rows
Lay out the units and pieces as in the picture and sew them into 3 rows. Press the seams in row 1 to the left, row 2 to the right, and so on, so they nest when the rows are joined.
- Join the rows
Join the 3 rows, matching and nesting the seams where they meet. Press the long seams open or to one side. The block measures 12½″ (12″ finished).
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Questions
Short answers.
Something else? A real person replies.
hello@quarterinch.app
What size should I make it?
Its 6 × 6 grid lands on the ⅛″ marks at 6″, 9″ and 12″, so every piece measures with a ruler at all three. It also cuts cleanly at 15″ and 18″. In Quarter Inch you can make it any size, and it says when a cut falls between the lines.
Can I paper piece it?
Yes. It splits into 6 sections (A, B, C, D, E and F), each sewn on its own paper in order and then joined with straight seams. In Quarter Inch, the Foundations tab prints its papers at true size (with Quilter).
Is it a good block for a beginner?
It’s an intermediate block: 28 pieces in 4 different shapes and 8 points to match. Take it slowly and pin the points. We work the level out from the block’s own geometry, never by eye.