Quilt block · Five-patch · Advanced
Algonquin Charm quilt block
A dark center square between four light rectangles, with a pair of dark parallelograms in each corner wrapped round a light square, like four arrows pointing out. Also called Simple Sue.
What to cut for one block
A 6″ finished block measures 6½″ before it’s sewn into a quilt. Each fabric’s yardage is the least that cuts its strips across the width of fabric, with a strip to spare for straightening.
Background · Snow in the picture
4 rectangles, 4 squares and 8 triangles
- D4 rectangles 3″ × 1¾″then cut with template D
- A4 squares 1¾″then cut with template A
- C8 squares 1¾″then cut with template C
Dark · Navy in the picture
1 center square and 8 parallelograms
- B8 rectangles 3″ × 1¾″then cut with template B
- A1 square 1¾″then cut with template A
Between the lines. Algonquin Charm cuts cleanly at 5″ or 7½″. At 6″ its parallelograms are 1¹⁄₅″ wide, so they need templates.
Worked out by @quarterinch/cutting · ¼″ seams included · strips cut across 42″ of usable width · the letters are the pieces the sewing steps name
A 9″ finished block measures 9½″ before it’s sewn into a quilt. Each fabric’s yardage is the least that cuts its strips across the width of fabric, with a strip to spare for straightening.
Background · Snow in the picture
4 rectangles, 4 squares and 8 triangles
- D4 rectangles 4⅛″ × 2⅜″then cut with template D
- A4 squares 2⅜″then cut with template A
- C8 squares 2⅜″then cut with template C
Dark · Navy in the picture
1 center square and 8 parallelograms
- B8 rectangles 4¼″ × 2⅜″then cut with template B
- A1 square 2⅜″then cut with template A
Between the lines. Algonquin Charm cuts cleanly at 7½″ or 10″. At 9″ its parallelograms are 1⁴⁄₅″ wide, so they need templates.
Worked out by @quarterinch/cutting · ¼″ seams included · strips cut across 42″ of usable width · the letters are the pieces the sewing steps name
A 12″ finished block measures 12½″ before it’s sewn into a quilt. Each fabric’s yardage is the least that cuts its strips across the width of fabric, with a strip to spare for straightening.
Background · Snow in the picture
4 rectangles, 4 squares and 8 triangles
- D4 rectangles 5⅜″ × 3″then cut with template D
- A4 squares 3″then cut with template A
- C8 squares 3″then cut with template C
Dark · Navy in the picture
1 center square and 8 parallelograms
- B8 rectangles 5½″ × 3″then cut with template B
- A1 square 3″then cut with template A
Between the lines. Algonquin Charm cuts cleanly at 10″ or 12½″. At 12″ its parallelograms are 2²⁄₅″ wide, so they need templates.
Worked out by @quarterinch/cutting · ¼″ seams included · strips cut across 42″ of usable width · the letters are the pieces the sewing steps name
How it’s sewn
For the 6″ block. Choose another size above and these steps follow it.
- Sew the set-in seams, 4 times
These pieces meet where a straight seam can’t run right across, so they’re joined with set-in (Y) seams. Mark the ¼″ seam points at each piece’s corners. Sew each seam only from mark to mark, backstitching at both ends, so the seam allowances stay free; sew the two seams into the corner, then pivot and sew the last one. Press the allowances so they swirl round the point. Its size isn’t on the ⅛″ ruler at this block size, so sew it as cut and don’t trim it.
- Add 4 corner triangles
Sew the Background C triangle across the corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle.
- Add 4 corner triangles
Sew the Background C triangle across the corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle. Its size isn’t on the ⅛″ ruler at this block size, so sew it as cut and don’t trim it.
- Sew the units and pieces into 3 rows
Lay out the units and pieces as in the picture and sew them into 3 rows. Press the seams in row 1 to the left, row 2 to the right, and so on, so they nest when the rows are joined.
- Join the rows
Join the 3 rows, matching and nesting the seams where they meet. Press the long seams open or to one side. The block measures 6½″ (6″ finished).
For the 9″ block. Choose another size above and these steps follow it.
- Sew the set-in seams, 4 times
These pieces meet where a straight seam can’t run right across, so they’re joined with set-in (Y) seams. Mark the ¼″ seam points at each piece’s corners. Sew each seam only from mark to mark, backstitching at both ends, so the seam allowances stay free; sew the two seams into the corner, then pivot and sew the last one. Press the allowances so they swirl round the point. Its size isn’t on the ⅛″ ruler at this block size, so sew it as cut and don’t trim it.
- Add 4 corner triangles
Sew the Background C triangle across the corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle.
- Add 4 corner triangles
Sew the Background C triangle across the corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle. Its size isn’t on the ⅛″ ruler at this block size, so sew it as cut and don’t trim it.
- Sew the units and pieces into 3 rows
Lay out the units and pieces as in the picture and sew them into 3 rows. Press the seams in row 1 to the left, row 2 to the right, and so on, so they nest when the rows are joined.
- Join the rows
Join the 3 rows, matching and nesting the seams where they meet. Press the long seams open or to one side. The block measures 9½″ (9″ finished).
For the 12″ block. Choose another size above and these steps follow it.
- Sew the set-in seams, 4 times
These pieces meet where a straight seam can’t run right across, so they’re joined with set-in (Y) seams. Mark the ¼″ seam points at each piece’s corners. Sew each seam only from mark to mark, backstitching at both ends, so the seam allowances stay free; sew the two seams into the corner, then pivot and sew the last one. Press the allowances so they swirl round the point. Its size isn’t on the ⅛″ ruler at this block size, so sew it as cut and don’t trim it.
- Add 4 corner triangles
Sew the Background C triangle across the corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle.
- Add 4 corner triangles
Sew the Background C triangle across the corner, along its long edge, and press toward the triangle. Its size isn’t on the ⅛″ ruler at this block size, so sew it as cut and don’t trim it.
- Sew the units and pieces into 3 rows
Lay out the units and pieces as in the picture and sew them into 3 rows. Press the seams in row 1 to the left, row 2 to the right, and so on, so they nest when the rows are joined.
- Join the rows
Join the 3 rows, matching and nesting the seams where they meet. Press the long seams open or to one side. The block measures 12½″ (12″ finished).
Blocks like it
More like this: Five-patch quilt blocks · all quilt blocks
Questions
Short answers.
Something else? A real person replies.
hello@quarterinch.app
Is Algonquin Charm the same block as Simple Sue?
Usually, yes. Block names vary by region and by book, and the same block is often sold under several. Our library lists Simple Sue as other name for this one, so a search for any of them finds it.
What size should I make it?
On its 5 × 5 grid, 6″, 9″ and 12″ put some pieces between the ⅛″ marks, so they need templates. It cuts cleanly at 10″ or 12½″.
Can I paper piece it?
Not as drawn: it has set-in (Y) seams, where three seams meet and none runs straight through. Piece it with a rotary cutter and templates instead, as the cutting list above does.
Is it a good block for a beginner?
It’s an advanced block: 25 pieces in 4 different shapes, set-in (Y) seams and 16 points to match. Practise the hard seams on scraps first. We work the level out from the block’s own geometry, never by eye.